One of the best things about being a jeweler is using all kinds of tools in the creation of custom jewelry. From the humble hammer to state-of-the-art machining tools and computer-aided design systems, both the low-tech and high-tech have a place in our workflow. Today we’re looking at the loupe. It’s a tool as closely associated with the jeweler as a paintbrush is with a painter. If you were asked to picture a jeweler in your mind, you might picture someone holding a ring in one hand and a little lens in the other. Even if you didn’t know what that lens was called, you know it’s a jeweler’s tool. After reading this, you’ll know a lot more than that.  

What It Is 

The loupe is that small magnifying glass used by jewelers. 10x magnification is the standard, but there are also 20x and 30x loupes. 10x offers the best balance between detail and focus. With higher magnifications, it’s harder to hold the jewelry steady and keep it in your field of vision, but those higher magnification loupes do have their place, such as spotting the tiniest inclusions in gemstones (more on inclusions later).

Loupes are typically painted black to reduce light and color reflections. “Color” is one of the 4Cs of diamond grading, so it’s important that a jeweler inspecting a diamond gets an accurate analysis of its color.

How It’s Used 

If you’ve ever used a magnifying glass, you know it takes a little trial and error to find the distances that give you the sharpest image, both in terms of the distance to hold the magnifying glass from your face and from the object you are magnifying. The loupe works much the same way. The best way to use a loupe is up close, held steady about an inch from the eye, with the object being examined held another inch away from the loupe. That’s the main advantage of a 10x loupe over 20x: it’s easier to find that sweet spot, where you get maximum magnification and maximum focus.

When It’s Used 

Loupes are most often used to inspect gemstones and to get a better look at small parts when repairing jewelry, such as earring studs and the prongs that hold gemstones in place. 

Jewelers inspect gemstones for tiny flaws called inclusions. Inclusions form when gas bubbles or foreign objects get trapped inside the gemstone’s crystal matrix when the crystal is forming. Every natural diamond has inclusions, but particularly large ones affect both the beauty and the durability of a diamond.

The loupe is also useful for reading hallmarks, those tiny stamps you’ll find on the inside of your rings. Hallmarks give jewelers important information about a piece of jewelry, often including what it’s made from, who made it, where it was made, and who verified the composition of the metal. Diamonds have similar information verifying the authenticity and provenance of the diamond (that is, where it came from) printed on the girdle (the narrow band that separates the top of the bottom from the longer, conical bottom). Hallmarks on precious metals and inscriptions on diamonds are important for preventing the sale of counterfeits.

Where It Came From

While the ancient Greeks wrote treatises on optics and ancient civilizations may have used lens-like pieces of glass as magnifiers and fire-starting tools, the branch of modern physics we call “optics” is only about 500 years old. The first eyeglasses were constructed in Italy in the 1200s, while the first optical microscope and refracting telescope date to around 1600. Johannes Kepler, Isaac Newton, and Christiaan Huygens all made important advances in the field of optics throughout the 1600s. It was during that century that the first jeweler’s loupes appeared. 

In 1934, the Gemological Institute of America introduced the loupe design so closely associated with the jeweler’s profession today: a 10x magnification lens inside a metal ring with a hinged cover that doubles as a handle. 

Why It’s Important 

Jewelers work at tiny scales. Even for the largest gemstones, facets are only millimeters across, and the inclusions that affect the beauty and value of a gemstone are often hardly visible to the naked eye. The loupe is one of the foundational tools of the modern jeweler’s profession. It’s what makes working on the most minuscule scales possible. It doesn’t look like much, but the physics and engineering knowledge that went into its creation shouldn’t be overlooked. 

If your friends all have strong opinions, having a Libra in the group to balance everyone’s needs can be a lifesaver. If you need someone to decide where you’re going out to eat tonight, Libra won’t be so helpful. This charming, kind, and cooperative sign tends to fall in love easily, let their partner take the lead, and avoid conflict, making it all the more important that they develop their ability to judge character. With the right partner, Libra’s creativity,

Element: Air

Air is the element of the intellect, and it manifests in Libra in a sharp wit and an eye for beauty. Libra has an artistic bent, and even if they’re not an artist, Libra will surround themselves with beauty and always strive to look their best. Libra’s focus on beauty might make them seem superficial, but rest assured, like the other earth signs, they have an active imagination and are bristling with ideas.

Ruling Planet: Venus

Venus, also the ruling planet of Taurus, another sign that loves beauty, luxury, and a life of ease. Venus also manifests in Libra in a need for security, both financially and romantically.

Libra Aesthetics

Libra has an eye for balance in both color and form. Always fashionable without chasing trends, always put-together without sacrificing comfort, their knack for individual expression through a harmonious aesthetic might lead them to a piece from our Inclinations collection.

Compatibility With Other Signs

Any pair of zodiac signs can become a powerful team if you know your own strengths and areas to work on. In any relationship, knowing yourself, allowing yourself to be honest and vulnerable, and being receptive to your partner’s needs are the keys to happiness. Understanding your tendencies and traits as well as those of your partner’s can help you turn any perceived point of incompatibility into something that makes you both stronger.

Aries: Combative, fiery Aries, ruled by Mars, and laid-back Libra, ruled by Venus: could this ever work? The answer is “definitely.” Sometimes, opposites attract. This is one of those times. Action-oriented Aries can keep Libra’s tendency toward indecision from resulting in inertia, and Libra has the diplomatic coolness required to keep Aries’s flame in check.

Taurus: Of the three Earth signs, Libra is probably most compatible with Taurus. As both signs are ruled by Venus, Libra and Taurus have a lot in common. Both signs love art. They both love to look their best. And they both love to relax in luxury. The uptight, stubborn, and routine-oriented nature of Taurus might not appeal to Libra, but conciliatory Libra is well-equipped to navigate even the most bullheaded partner.

Gemini: Another charming air sign, Gemini will enjoy great conversation and good times with Libra. Libra, however, puts a little more stock in romance. They need to know they are loved, and as much as Gemini loves to chat, deep conversations about feelings is not often what they have in mind. Nevertheless, these two signs can make a great couple when they get on the same page, with Libra providing focus and diplomacy to Gemini’s unfiltered energy.

Cancer: Cancer might seem a little too emotionally needy and socially reclusive to head-in-the-clouds, sociable Libra. The major challenge in this relationship is for Libra and Cancer to be real with each other. Cancer can be a bit of a people-pleaser, while Libra will more passively go along to get along. Being honest about needs—for friendship, for family time, and about emotional satisfaction in the relationship—is key to making this work.

Leo: Libra and Leo is a love-at-first-sight story. On the surface, these two have a lot in common: beautiful, stylish, charming. But once things get more than skin deep, the relationship becomes more challenging. An insecure, egotistical Leo could lash out at sheepish Libra, who may keep quiet and endure in order to avoid conflict. A more evolved Leo, however, could be exactly the kind of caring yet take-charge partner Libra wants.

Virgo: Adjacent-sign relationships are always a challenge. Critical taskmaster Virgo might come off as a little too harsh and direct for sensitive conciliator Libra. But Virgo also has a sensitive, supportive side. As we said in our Virgo blog, Libra-Virgo can work because  “both love art (what Libra appreciates aesthetically, Virgo likes to analyze intellectually), neat, clean surroundings, and a relaxing, stress-free home life.” Libra dreams of a relationship where their partner makes the plans, decides what to eat for dinner, and keeps the house in order. They could get that with a Virgo partner.

Libra: A Libra-Libra relationship has the potential to bring out the best in both partners. Libra is always looking to solve problems in a way that benefits all parties. The only problem is that Libra is not great at speaking their mind. At its worst, a Libra-Libra relationship will devolve into this interminable cycle: “What do you want to watch?” “I don’t know, whatever. What’s for dinner?” “Whatever you want. I don’t care.” At its best, this relationship is one of creativity, mutual fulfillment, great conversation, and a lot of love.

Scorpio: Cunning, controlling, and full of secrets…at least, that’s how Scorpio might seem in the eyes of carefree Libra. This is another challenging water sign-air sign match. Libra’s outgoing nature could spark Scorpio’s jealousy, but if anyone has the ability to soothe and reassure a jealous Scorpio, it’s Libra.

Sagittarius: Whereas Libra is a natural match for Aries, another fire sign, a relationship with fire sign Sagittarius may be fraught with communication issues even Libra can’t resolve. If Virgo is too direct for Libra, Sagittarius’s bluntness can be even more hurtful to sensitive Libra. If Sagittarius is open to slowing down a bit and living with more consideration and intent, Libra can bring some much-needed balance to their life.

Capricorn: Capricorn, the workaholic, might find Libra too frivolous and flighty, while Libra might find Capricorn too rigid and emotionally unavailable. When this relationship works, it’s because of well-defined roles and boundaries and open communication, which can be asking a lot of Libra. If you’re willing to listen to and learn from each other, Capricorn can learn to enjoy the fruits of their labor and Libra can find the joy in structure and hard work.

Aquarius: This fellow air sign might be Libra’s best match. Both signs are creative, witty, and a little odd, and Libra might feel they’ve found their kindred spirit, someone with whom they can share all of their wild ideas about art and society and feel seen rather than judged.  

Pisces: While air signs and water signs aren’t always a great match, Libra and Pisces are two dreamy signs with a love of romance and imagination. Just make sure not to get so lost in each other that you lose sight of the rest of the world.

Your Love is Written in the Stars

Who brings harmony and beauty to your life, Libra? No matter how the stars have aligned for you, you’ll find your match in our Zodiac collection. Check out the collection and design your paired Zodiac rings here. Just choose your ring sizes and your signs and we’ll take care of the rest. 

For almost as long as people have been making beautiful objects out of gold, the hammer has been the goldsmith’s best friend. The relationship between artisans and their tools is part of what gives handcrafted works of art their aura: whether it’s a thousand-year old figure crafted in Colombia or a hammered-finish gold ring  from the mid-20th century, seeing the hand of the artisan in the texture of the metal connects you to the physical labor that went into its creation. Textured metal makes it impossible to ignore the fact that this object in your hands was shaped by another pair of hands, and it’s been passed from theirs to yours.

The tools have changed over the years, but the dedication to craftsmanship remains. In addition to hammering the metal, we can use tools such as a ring polisher with brushes of different materials, coarseness, and textures to achieve different effects. Here’s how we create the various textures you see in the Design Center and our curated collections.

Polished: The classic. Platinum, palladium, and all of our gold, whether yellow, white, red, or peach, is beautiful on its own. If you appreciate the shine of precious metal, a polished surface is for you. Precious metals are corrosion and tarnish resistant, and will maintain that shine as long as they are re-polished periodically. There is one exception, however: platinum. Platinum will acquire a patina over time, in which the metal takes on a satiny appearance. This patina can be polished away, but some people love the look of platinum patina, as it signifies the passage of time. A platinum ring will grow and change with you.

Ice-Matte: A striking finish, literally and figuratively. To create this finish, we strike the ring with a sheet of sandpaper, creating lines and grooves in the ring. The irregular pattern gives the ring both the rough look and the mysterious soft glow of a vast mountain glacier.

Satin Cross Brush: In this finish, the brush is moved across the surface of the ring, creating a texture of lines that run perpendicular to the edges of the ring. This finish changes the way light reflects off of the ring, adding a sense of depth.

Soft Satin Brush: Like the satin cross brush finish, a soft satin finish adds a little bit of texture to the surface of the ring that changes the way light plays on its surface. Because the brush lines run vertically along the ring, the result is a softer glow than the more dramatic satin cross brush finish.

Sandblast: A sandblasted finish is exactly what it sounds like: the ring is blasted … We use either coarse or fine (large or small) grains of sand to create different effects. The coarse sandblast finish is much more textured. The effect is different for different types of metals. It looks quite luxurious and sophisticated in gold, but it gives platinum and palladium a much more rugged look.

Florentine: The Florentine finish is a delicate and precise pattern that takes a delicate and precise hand. Using a graver (a tool for shaving and engraving metal), the jeweler carves a series of angled lines across the face of the ring in one direction, then crosshatches it in the other direction.  The intricate zig-zag pattern created gives the ring a soft glow from afar and a complex, sophisticated look up close.

Sandstone: Like the sandblast finish but even more coarse, the sandstone finish gives your ring a sparkling finish that makes it almost look like it is encrusted in gemstones.

Cross Brush: This finish is similar to the satin cross brush, but with a heavier brush. The result is a luxurious, satiny finish that looks like it would be soft or fluffy to the touch, especially when paired with a rounder ring profile.

Combining Cutting-Edge Tools With an Artisan’s Touch

These finishes aren’t a matter of turning on a machine and letting it do its thing. There is an interplay between the spinning brush and the ring that we have to feel out. It takes practice to know intuitively the right amount of pressure to apply and when to rotate the ring. And it takes patience and a steady hand to painstakingly carve out the pattern of a Florentine finish. Because of the interactions between artisans and our tools, the finished product is slightly different each time. There is a degree of consistency from one ring to the next, but no two are exactly alike.

When you design a set of wedding bands in the Design Center, you don’t have to design a pair of identical bands. You can customize each ring according to your own needs and preferences. While some people prefer an identical set, other couples like to begin with a theme or design element that their two rings will share in common and then add their own individual flair.

For a lot of men, even just a simple gold wedding band just gets in the way when you’re at work. You don’t want to just leave your ring at home, but at the same time, you don’t want to constantly take it off and put it back on. That’s how you lose it. No matter what kind of work you do or what kind of style you’re going for, we can design a wedding band that looks great and works for you. Whether you put function over form or are looking for a way to integrate both in a practical yet meaningful design, here are some things to think about.

Profile and Dimensions

It doesn’t matter if the tools you work with are a wrench and ratchet or a keyboard and mouse, one thing’s for sure: a heavy, thick ring can get in the way. If you’re not someone who normally wears rings or you feel like a ring is going to take some time to get used to, keep that in mind when selecting a profile, as you’ll probably want something that doesn’t stick out too far from the finger. Lowering the ring height can also help you maximize comfort.

There’s also the width of the ring to consider. Men’s wedding bands tend to be wider, and a wider band looks better on a larger finger, but a ring that’s too wide could keep you from fully flexing your finger. As you’re experimenting with different profiles, heights, and widths, click the little hand icon to see what the ring would look like on a finger.

As for sizing, our rings go as large as size 15. That’s 23mm or almost an inch in diameter (ring sizes are measured in diameter—the width of your finger—and not circumference, or the distance around the finger). Don’t know your ring size? Get a free ring sizing kit here. 

Metals

We offer platinum, palladium, and a few different gold alloys in the Design Center. Gold and platinum are durable, but they’re both malleable metals and not scratch resistant. While your platinum ring can accumulate scratches if you’re not careful with it, the metal is malleable enough that scratches can be buffed out. When platinum is scratched, the metal just gets moved around, not chipped off. Think of it like sticking your finger in clay: the clay just gets moved to the side, and you can smooth it out again. Obviously clay is a lot softer than metal, but you get the idea.

Neither platinum or gold will rust or tarnish, but platinum will acquire a patina with wear. Some people like the look of platinum patina as a symbol of the passage of time, of age and experience.  If you don’t like the look of it, it’s easy to buff away. If you work with your hands or are constantly picking up or touching things, the bottom of the ring will likely acquire a patina before the top.

Palladium is a little harder than both platinum and gold and is therefore more scratch resistant. Its grayish color coupled with a surface finish like a satin brush or sandblast will result in a look that is great for everyday wear, at once luxurious and rugged.

Colors

We offer more than just yellow gold. By alloying gold with different metals, we can create 18k or 14k red, peach, or white gold. If you don’t like the look of yellow gold, you want something a little more modern, or you just want to create something more unique and meaningful to you, take a look at our colored gold options. To learn more about the different gold alloys you’ll find in the Design Center, check out this blog. 

Diamonds

If you’re particularly active, you might shy away from adding diamonds to your wedding band. What if you smack your ring against something and lose a gemstone?

That’s not an issue with our rings. Our diamond settings are engineered to last. Instead of prongs holding the diamond up and away from the ring, we use a variety of settings, such as the tension ring, channel, and bezel settings, that let the diamond rest almost flat against the surface of the ring. These settings are safe, secure, and practical, but they also give your wedding band a touch of luxury you can feel good about wearing anywhere, every day.

The tension ring setting is a particularly ingenious piece of engineering. In a tension ring, the ring is designed to exert pressure on the gemstone. It’s such a strong setting that only the hardest gemstones, like diamonds, can stand up to the pressure. It would take a pretty hard direct blow to dislodge the stone from this kind of setting.

Engraving

Even if you’re just looking for a no-frills, classic gold wedding band, there is one customization option you might want to give some thought to: a custom engraving on the inside of your wedding band, something only you can see, something important that reminds you of what makes your relationship so special. Maybe it’s the date you met, fingerprints, and ECG, or something else. The only limit is your imagination. To help get the creative juices flowing, we listed a few ideas for engravings here. 

There’s No Need to Compromise on a Wedding Band

You don’t have to find a compromise between getting the ring you want and the ring you need. Let’s work together to design a ring that looks great on you without getting in the way.