When you’re choosing diamonds in the Design Center, you’ll notice a drop-down menu for diamond type. You’ll also notice that all of our diamonds are brilliant cuts. There’s just no better way to show off a diamond’s beauty than through this complex and exacting cut. So what is it that makes the brilliant cut so brilliant?

Shape and Cut

But first, a word on the terms “shape” and “cut.” You’ll often hear people talk about shape and cut as if the terms were interchangeable. “Cut” refers to the arrangement of facets. The same cut can be presented in a number of shapes. “Brilliant” is the cut, and “round” is the shape.

Brilliant Cut Defined

The round brilliant is the archetypal diamond. What does it look like? Well…just imagine a diamond. You’re probably picturing a round brilliant and not, say, a marquise or a pear shape or a cushion or Asscher cut. It’s the kind of diamond represented by the icon for the “Diamonds” tab in the Design Center. The “O” in our logo is the top of a round brilliant. Count the facets: 32 plus the large table in the middle. If you could flip it over, you’d find another 24 on the pavilion (the longer bottom part of a brilliant cut diamond) for a total of 57.

While a brilliant cut diamond can take a number of shapes, it’s that precise number and arrangement of facets that defines the brilliant cut. Brilliant cut diamonds have 57 facets: 56 symmetrical facets and a large flat facet on top (the table). Sometimes the small octagonal facet at the point on the bottom (the culet) is counted as the 58th.

History of the Brilliant Cut

Why did this particular cut become so popular? It’s a long story, the end result of years of work by jewelers to maximize the optical properties that make diamonds special. A poorly cut diamond isn’t all that appealing to look at. It doesn’t sparkle all that much. It lacks that dynamic interplay of light and shadow. An uncut diamond is just kind of translucent, like a little chip of ice. It takes a master in the art and science of gemstone cutting equipped with modern tools to bring a diamond to life.

Those modern tools are what make modern gemstone cuts like the brilliant possible. Diamonds are hard—a 10 (out of 10) on the Mohs hardness scale. The only thing that can cut a diamond is another diamond. Before the advent of modern lapidary tools, diamonds were just polished and set in their natural octahedral shape. They just weren’t as appealing to look at or as easy to work with as other stones, and for much of history, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires were valued much more highly than diamonds.

Improvements in cutting tools, a greater understanding of optics (the study of the behavior of light), and a lot of complex mathematics changed all of that. By the 1800s, jewelers had discovered that 57 was the ideal number of facets for bringing out the unique optical properties of the diamond, those properties being refraction and dispersion.

Diamonds, comprised of tightly-packed carbon atoms in a crystalline structure, are an extremely dense medium and have a high refractive index. Refraction occurs when the path of light is changed when it enters a new medium, like water. It’s why your straw looks cut in half when you look at your glass of water from the side, or why the body of someone standing in a pool looks tiny and squat under the water.

Where there is a high degree of refraction, there is also dispersion. When light is dispersed, it is broken up into the separate colors that comprise it. Prisms, for instance, are dispersive. In the same way that water droplets in the sky refract light and disperse it to create rainbows, an expertly cut diamond refracts light and disperses it to create the colorful sparks that seem to dance across its surface.

19th century cuts like the Old Mine cut and the Old European cut let light play inside a diamond as it never had before, but diamonds would soon become even more beautiful. If you’ve ever seen an antique diamond, it may have looked a little underwhelming in comparison to today’s diamonds. That’s not because it’s old but because there was still another advancement to be made before we could reach the diamond’s true potential.

In 1919, A PhD student named Marcel Tolkowski determined the exact angles at which to cut a diamond’s facets to maximize the brilliance and fire of a diamond. The idea is to prevent light from escaping through the facets and making sure as much of it as possible gets reflected back up to the face. A brilliant discovery, but that’s not what gives the cut its name. The brilliant cut is all about light. What we call “brilliance” refers to the amount of white light the diamond reflects. “Fire,” meanwhile, describes the multicolored sparkles that make diamonds so captivating.

The dance of light and shadow, of clarity and color—that’s what makes the brilliant cut so brilliant.

Because the symbol of Gemini is a pair of twins (Castor and Pollux, twin gods whose conception is a bizarre story, even for Greek mythology), it is often assumed that Gemini is two-faced or mercurial. In reality, Gemini is energetic, sociable, charming, and loyal to their loved ones, sometimes frighteningly so. Gemini loves to make friends and knows how to get people to open up. A Gemini will be a friend for life, but those who cross Gemini or their loved ones will live to regret it. Perhaps Gemini’s reputation for moodiness is a result of that strong sense of loyalty. Overall, Gemini’s “dual personality” tends to be overstated and their charisma and loyalty understated, as anyone who has forged a relationship with this lively, charming sign can attest to.

Element: Air

Air circulates, flows, passes between us, gives us life. As an air sign, Gemini can be the life of the party, bringing people together, livening up any gathering. This “airiness” might also manifest as aloofness, a sense of being above it all, coming off as an unemotional, rational observer of events, or as someone who is forgetful and lives in the moment.

Ruling Planet: Mercury

Mercury is an energetic planet, zipping around the Sun in just 88 days, and Gemini embodies that energy in social situations. In Roman mythology, Mercury is the messenger of the gods, and Gemini is one of the most communicative signs in the Zodiac. Whether it’s discussing complex intellectual topics, being the center of attention at a party, or just chatting to pass the time and make new friends, Gemini is the master of self-expression.

Gemini Aesthetics

Energy, openness, and a free spirit: these are the defining characteristics of Gemini. Being a social butterfly, Gemini will have a personal style that matches their outgoing and individualistic personality. Smooth, stylish, and sophisticated without being understated or minimalistic is the Gemini look.

Compatibility With Other Signs

Any pair of zodiac signs can become a powerful team if you know your own strengths and areas to work on. In any relationship, knowing yourself, allowing yourself to be honest and vulnerable, and being receptive to your partner’s needs are the keys to happiness. Understanding your tendencies and traits as well as those of your partner’s can help you turn any perceived point of incompatibility into a strength. This is especially true of Gemini, whose ability to make connections and bring people out of their shells knows no bounds.

Aries: Air and fire signs are a natural match. Aries and Gemini are two energetic signs who love spontaneity. Aries, however, is never afraid to voice their displeasure with someone’s behavior, and a more avoidant Gemini might end up harboring resentments that can cause trouble in a long-term relationship. Though Gemini would rather not get into a verbal war of words, they will throw down if they reach their limit. If the two can navigate these communication issues, Aries can help Gemini harness their scattered energy and Gemini can help Aries be a little more lighthearted.

Taurus: If both partners aren’t open-minded and interested in personal growth, this match can be a challenge. Gemini needs a social life as much as they need air to breathe, while the perfect weekend for a Taurus is on the couch under a blanket with their favorite movie on TV or book in their lap. When this relationship works, it’s because Gemini has the charisma to bring Taurus out of their shell and Taurus can help Gemini become a little more practical and solid. Gemini’s charm and charisma, however, ought to be more than a match for Taurus’s stubbornness and inertia.

Gemini: A Gemini who loves to have fun will find a good partner in another Gemini. The main difficulty in this pairing is finding balance. After all, there can be only one center of attention! Every comedian needs their straight man; every lead actor needs someone in a supporting role. A Gemini-Gemini relationship could turn into a “too many cooks” situation, but there’s also the potential for a relationship in which your partner is your best friend, an endless source of adventure and good conversation.

Cancer: Gemini is the prototypical extroverted sign, and Cancer is the prototypical introverted sign. Like the Gemini-Taurus pair, Gemini and Cancer will have to be open and honest about their feelings, which tends to be easier for Cancer than for Gemini. Being adjacent signs, Cancer and Gemini tend to have ways of experiencing life that are totally at odds with each other, but the right Cancer and Gemini will find that they complete each other: they’re on the same wavelength, but they got there in totally different ways.

Leo: Like Aries, Leo is a fire sign that vibes with Gemini. They’re both highly social signs, but if there’s one sign that wants to be the center of attention more than Gemini, it’s Leo, which can cause problems if one partner has a more vibrant social life than the other. Despite that point of friction, these two signs just get each other and can enjoy a lifetime of fun and deep connection together.

Virgo: Fastidious, serious Virgo and fun-loving Gemini don’t seem like an ideal pair at first. Virgo’s idea of a good time is staying home and reorganizing the pantry, and when Gemini decides on a whim that friends are going to come over and hang out, Virgo will wonder how many more times they can explain that the third Thursday in the month is pantry-organizing day, always has been, always will be. Fortunately for both, these two signs are ruled by Mercury, and will enjoy open and respectful dialogue that will help both signs grow.

Libra: As two air signs, Libra and Gemini will charm each other with their wit and flair. But while Gemini is fun and flighty, Libra wants more than just fun. Libra needs romance. Libra needs commitment. Libra needs to know it’s deep and it’s going to last. Despite the communicative nature of these signs, they are both conflict-averse. If Gemini and Libra can be open and honest with each other, Gemini is more than able to give Libra the romance a Libra needs, and Libra will be able to give Gemini the kind of social life a Gemini needs.

Scorpio: Gemini and Scorpio are both curious signs with a thirst for knowledge and understanding, yet they are both signs that like their secrets, making this a difficult match. Luckily, both signs have a lot of energy and love conversation, as well, so if there is a will to work out any problems, Gemini and Scorpio will find a way. This can also be an intriguing match in that Scorpio and Gemini both delight in feeling like they understand what makes someone else tick, so a Scorpio and Gemini attracted to each other will work to understand their partner on a deep level.

Sagittarius: Sagittarius is opposite Gemini on the Zodiac wheel, and when it comes to Zodiac signs, opposites attract. Gemini is a great match for Aries and Leo, two fire signs, but the fire sign that pairs best with Gemini is Sagittarius. Sagittarius has a lot in common with air signs in their charm, love of adventure, and sociable nature. While some couples are all about obsessing over their partner, a Sagittarius-Gemini pair could thrive in a more open, individualistic relationship, where the couple establishes boundaries and are able to live their own lives without jealousy.

Capricorn: Gemini can enjoy relationships with signs that offset their more airy aspects. While Aries can help Gemini focus their passions and Taurus can help them discover the joy of rest and relaxation, hardworking Capricorn can show a Gemini how to take care of business both at work and in the domestic sphere, while Gemini can inject a sense of fun and spontaneity into Capricorn’s practical world.

Aquarius: A great match for a more artistic, creative Gemini, free-spirited Aquarius can provide the kind of excitement Gemini craves. Creativity can sometimes lead to taking liberties with the truth, so in order to build a long-lasting relationship, both of these signs will have to build a relationship on honest communication and hold each other accountable for handling the less fun parts of life, like remembering to cancel that subscription before the free trial runs out.

Pisces: Like Cancer, Pisces is often emotional, introverted, and a bit dreamy. Pisces tends to idealize their partner, and charming Gemini is easy to put on a pedestal. Gemini might also find in Pisces endlessly fascinating, a bottomless well of deep conversation and deep thoughts. It’s important for these two signs to see each other for who they really are, not for who they want the other to be.

Your Love is Written in the Stars

What energizes you, Gemini? Who is that person you can talk to for hours, who can direct your wit and spontaneity into something fulfilling for you both? No matter how the stars have aligned for you, you’ll find your match in our Zodiac collection. Check out the collection and design your paired Zodiac rings here. Just choose your ring sizes and your signs and we’ll take care of the rest!

Some of us remember the 90s as a decade of flannel, loud guitars, and not washing your hair, but for others, it was the decade of bling. By the final decade of the 20th century, the jewelry styles that took shape in the 19th century, such as yellow gold engagement rings, had become traditional and ubiquitous—and maybe a little too mainstream for 90s tastes. Gen X brides didn’t want their grandmother’s heirloom ring; they wanted modern, sleek platinum engagement rings and wedding bands. At the same time, rappers were waving their platinum Rolexes in the air, and platinum gained its status as a metal a step above gold in terms of luxury and exclusivity. Platinum came to symbolize the very best: platinum membership, platinum credit card, platinum watch.

It seems that every so often platinum comes back in style, but the truth is since the technological advances of the mid-19th century transformed the metal from a curiosity seen only in a few Russian coins to a more durable, valuable replacement for silver in luxury jewelry, platinum has been a mainstay for those lovers of fine jewelry who want something a little different. Its only dip in popularity came during World War II, when the metal was needed for the war effort.

The Gold Standard, The Platinum Alternative

Since then, gold has remained the standard for luxury jewelry, but platinum has always been there for those whose eye is drawn to the unusual. What exactly makes platinum so alluring is hard to pin down. Colored gemstones like emeralds and sapphires pop against its white surface; the metal also provides a platform for diamonds to burst with fire and scintillation. It’s heavy and industrial. But it’s also modern and minimalist. But it’s also sophisticated and luxurious. It offers something different to gold, but what that “something” is depends on your personal style.

Platinum 600 Improves on a Classic

One of our signature metals is Platinum 600, an alloy of platinum containing 60% platinum and 40% other metals from the platinum group. The platinum group metals are a group of six precious metals: platinum, palladium, rhodium, ruthenium, iridium, and osmium. These metals are noble metals; that is, they are highly resistant to rust and tarnish. Their durability, rarity, and beauty make them among the most valuable metals on earth.

All alloys are mostly mixed with other platinum group metals. The exact “other metals” in our Platinum 600 alloy are our secret sauce, a mixture of hypoallergenic metals that improve on platinum’s durability and sophistication while actually making it more durable. On its own, platinum is a malleable metal. It can be scratched, dinged, and bent out of shape through normal wear and tear. By alloying it to harder metals, we can bring you the beauty of platinum without the risks of damage you get with the softer, more common Platinum 950 (90% platinum) alloy.

With Platinum 600, you get a more durable piece of jewelry with the same natural white luster as Platinum 950—and you get it at a fraction of the price. Due to its lower platinum content, Platinum 600 is significantly more affordable than Platinum 950 jewelry.

For the past 40 years, platinum prices had hovered slightly above gold prices. A few years ago, that changed, and the price of gold began to soar. At the time of writing this blog (April, 2025), the price of gold soared to over $3,000 per ounce—double its price five years ago—while platinum sits below $1,000 per ounce. Platinum 600 gives you all the luxury of platinum at an even lower price.

Palladium: The Alternative to the Alternative

Just as platinum has stood as a symbol of something different for decades, palladium, a precious metal from the platinum group, is a relative newcomer to the luxury jewelry world and is poised to become its next breakout star for those interested in something off the beaten path.

Not many jewelers are working with this metal yet, but we’ve developed a Palladium 500 alloy that contains 50% palladium, with the other 50% composed of a proprietary blend of metals chosen for their durability, affordability, and beauty. Just like platinum, it has a naturally white finish that won’t tarnish or require rhodium plating. Most people probably can’t easily distinguish between the two metals.

You’ll notice the difference right away as soon as you put it on. Palladium is less dense and therefore significantly lighter than platinum. A larger platinum piece of jewelry can start to feel pretty heavy after an extended period of wear. If you’re someone who is constantly pulling your rings on an off or tugging at your necklaces because you can’t seem to ignore the fact that you are wearing them, the weight of platinum can be a problem.

You’ll also notice the difference in price. Palladium is even more affordable than platinum, Palladium 500 even more so. As luxurious and durable as platinum, but at a lower price? It’s no wonder connoisseurs are starting to wake up to this slept-on metal.

Accentuate Your Diamonds or Express Yourself

Platinum 600 and Palladium 500 are two affordable yet luxurious alternatives to gold that bring out the beauty in diamonds or make a statement on their own. Visit the Design Center and see for yourself why these two metals are two of our favorites. 

As you explore the Design Center, you’ll find a few different options for your diamonds. Three of the four categories are self-explanatory. But if you’re curious about the abbreviations in the “Color/Quality” menu, you’ve come to the right place.

Before we talk about color and quality, think about the geological conditions that have to come together to produce a diamond. First, you need a deposit of carbon deep below the earth’s surface, at a depth of about 125 miles (200 km). Down there, the pressure is 50,000 times stronger than the pressure at the surface. That amount of pressure creates immense heat: 1600°C (3000°F). The heat and pressure liquefies rock and squeezes carbon atoms together into a crystalline pattern. Then, you need that heat and pressure to find an outlet to erupt to the surface, or at least close enough to the surface for miners to access the kimberlite pipes in which diamonds are embedded.

Such a violent act of creation is going to leave scars. These “scars” are called inclusions: little pockets of gas trapped inside the crystal, or microscopic streaks of other metals that get snared in the diamond’s crystalline web of carbon. The more inclusions are present in the crystal, the less clear the diamond is going to look.

With all that liquid metal sloshing around down there, other substances are going to bond with the carbon as it cools. That’s one thing that determines a diamond’s color. When higher levels of nickel or nitrogen get trapped in the forming crystal, you get a diamond with a more yellow hue.

The diamond’s structure also determines its color. Given the conditions under which diamonds are formed, the structure of the crystal isn’t always going to be perfect. It’s that crystal structure that reflects light and makes a diamond look transparent. The more perfect the crystal, the more colorless a diamond will appear. Graphite is also pure carbon, but it’s dark gray because the carbon atoms are arranged in a 2D structure that absorbs light rather than a 3D crystal that reflects light.

Most diamonds are brown and not really suitable for jewelry. These diamonds get used in electronics, durable saw blades, and other industrial applications. Diamonds are not the rarest gemstone the planet’s geology produces, but a clear diamond with few inclusions and a near-perfect structure is the product of an incredible set of circumstances.

Color

Diamond color ranges from “Colorless” to “Light” on a scale of D to Z, with perfectly colorless diamonds given a “D” grade and light, yellow-tinted diamonds given a “Z” grade. Why start at D? The creators of the scale, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), wanted to avoid confusion with an older A-B-C grading system.

While D color diamonds are the rarest and most expensive, that doesn’t mean that they are inherently “better.” Some types of metals and some skin tones look better with slightly more yellow diamonds. It all depends on your personal preferences and what you think looks good.

We offer three colors of diamonds in the Design Center: G, J, and R. These three options cover a variety of colors and price points to match with any color metal and any budget.

G-J Color: D-F color diamonds are rare and thus prohibitively expensive for most buyers. Even a professional jeweler, however, would be hard-pressed to notice a difference between D-F color diamonds and G-J (“Near Colorless”) color diamonds.

G color diamonds provide the best balance of near-perfect color and affordability. Any yellow tint will be imperceptible to the naked eye except in the kind of ideal studio lighting conditions rarely found in the wild.

J color diamonds have slightly more yellow tint, but they are still closer to the traditional colorless diamond than the more yellowy “champagne” diamond.

R Color: These “Very Light” diamonds are not just for the price-conscious buyer. With their slight champagne tint, R color diamonds contrast beautifully against a white metal like platinum, palladium, or white gold. If you’re looking for something a little different, try pairing an R color diamond with a platinum band.

Red gold provides a warm backdrop for your R grade diamond for a ring with a wistful, nostalgic vibe. Think summer afternoons, romantic sunsets, or the warm, fuzzy feeling of a glass of champagne.

Quality

By “quality,” we mean the clarity of the diamond. The clarity scale describes the number and size of the inclusions (internal marks) and blemishes (external marks) visible under 10x magnification. There are six grades on the clarity scale: Flawless, Internally Flawless, Very Very Slightly Included, Very Slightly Included, Slightly Included, and Included. All except the first two grades have 2-3 further subdivisions for more granular grading.

According to GIA, most diamonds sold range from VS to SI. We offer three categories: Internally Flawless, Very Slightly Included, and Slightly Included.

IF (“Internally Flawless”): An Internally Flawless diamond has no inclusions visible at 10x magnification, though it may have surface blemishes. To the naked eye, however, this is a perfectly clear diamond.

VS (“Very Slightly Included”): A jeweler can detect inclusions under magnification, but they are hard to spot. Even professionals might not be able to tell the difference between a VS and an IF diamond with the naked eye.

SI (“Slightly Included”): A jeweler can easily spot inclusions under magnification. If you know what you’re looking for, you might see a slight white spot where the diamond doesn’t sparkle as you rotate it under the light, but these spots are smaller than a single facet.

The differences between these three categories are not all that noticeable. We do not carry I (“Included”) diamonds. Significant inclusions detract from a diamond’s beauty and may indicate structural issues that make the diamond prone to cracking or breaking.

Color? Clarity? It’s All About the Cut

There’s one thing that can enhance a diamond’s color and clarity and make it look better than its grade: the quality of the cut. An expert cut can make a diamond look bigger and brighter than it is, enhancing its brilliance and scintillation. We only carry diamonds whose cut matches the master craftsmanship we put into every ring we make, so no matter your budget, you’ll find the perfect diamond for your ring.